It's Not Just About Fashion
It's Not All Black
A Basic Goth Wardrobe
Tips for the Budgetgoth
Must I Dye?
Painted Faces (& Other Things)
Baubles, Bangles & Bats
Goth Style and the Mundane World
Selected Businesses & Resources
So you think you might be goth, and you'd like to throw yourself into the style and dress the part. But where on earth do you start? Fear not, for the Ice Princess is here to give you some starting advice on how to create your own personal goth look.
Disclaimer: contrary to popular thought, you do not have to meet the Anglo-Saxon Victorian-wilting-flower ideal to be goth. You can be any race, size, shape, sex, or whatever. However, I do happen to be painfully Anglo-Saxon, and thus can only speak knowledgeably about Anglo-Saxon coloring. Don't despair--there are plenty of "goths of color," and some of the links in this section will lead you to more authoritative info on how to be one.
For lots of information about goth style and fashion, and resources for creating your own perfect goth style, the alt.gothic.fashion.FAQ is a great place to get started. Far from being simply a list of frequently-asked questions, it contains a range of links, descriptions, reviews, tips and tricks, contributed over the years by the denizens of the alt.gothic.fashion newsgroup, some of the most stylish and creative goths around.
Remember that goth is about attitude, style, and way of thinking. You don't have to dress in velvet and lace all the time to be goth. By the same token, dressing that way doesn't automatically make you a goth. If you just don't feel like a corset and long skirt one day, it's totally cool to throw on a sweater and leggings--and any goth who criticizes you for it isn't a very broad-thinking goth. And if you're not a goth, but feel like dressing that way occasionally, do it! It's great fun, though it can take a lot of effort (both to assemble and to wear).
The most important thing about your own personal goth style is that it be yours. Avoid the uniform of the Doomcookie--the black fishnet shirt/black skirt/black boots/black lipstick look that's become the goth cliche (for both sexes). This is the surest way to let other goths know you're a newbie-goth, and to get not-goths to sneer at you. Play around with different types of clothing, different accessories, different makeup looks, until you find ones that are comfortable and look right to you. One of the hallmarks of goth style is creativity; while you may find similar elements on five different goths, they'll each have assembled the parts in unique ways. Your style should be an expression of who you are, what you feel, and what you want to be. Your goth clothing should make you feel beautiful, powerful and confident. If it doesn't, don't wear it, no matter how "goth" other people tell you it is. And if you think it's goth and you like, even if other goths don't, wear it.
Obviously, black is the most popular color with goths, with white and gunmetal running close behind. But you don't have to stick with monochrome. You are allowed to wear other colors. The most common characteristics of goth colors are that they be rich, intense, and cool--you don't find a lot of yellow, orange or brown on goths. But remember, attitude and style: if you want to wear it, it's goth. The most often seen colors are red (especially blood red), purple, and burgundy; dark green, cobalt blue, and teal are also staples of many a goth wardrobe. Some goths like neon accents, bright pink or green, in tights or scarves. Pastels are rare, but when they are worn they're super-saturated and as cool as possible: icy lavender, mint green, ultra-pale pink. If all-black is too much for you, throw some color in.
A goth wardrobe can be expensive, so if you're just getting started, here are the basic things that can be your foundation. They're all easy to find; you can choose whatever style you like, and spend as much or as little as you please.
The idea here is to be creative with these pieces--don't run to Ye Olde Gothe Emporium and buy "the goth kit." Find pieces that you really like and that work for you. Imagination is more important to goth style than conformity. Add accessories and makeup that you like, and you'll have your own style and "look" in no time. As you get more confident with your style (and more wealthy), you can build on this foundation with more special, extravagant pieces.A long-sleeved shirt in white or black (or one of each)--the actual style is up to you: a crisp oversized dress shirt, a ruffly blouse, a lace-up pirate shirt...whatever catches your fancy.
Black jeans/leggings.
Long black skirt (and this can hold true for the boys as well as the girls). Again, style and fabric are your choice: velvet, silk, wool; straight, flowy, poufy...
Black boots. Pointy-toed boots with lots of buckles, towering platform boots, and stompy military-style or work boots are goth favorites, but you're by no means limited to those.
Black coat. Once again, choose what you like: leather biker jacket, wool overcoat, oversized blazer. It should give you a distinctive silhouette.
Interesting black t-shirt. Shirts for goth bands are obviously common, but this is a place where you can really exercise your own style. Look for something not everyone has.
Having a goth wardrobe can be expensive. All that velvet, silk, lace, leather and wool adds up. But then again, having a wardrobe of well-made business suits can be expensive too. It all depends on what you want, where you shop, and what you're willing to accept.
Most important tip for budgetgoths: learn to love thrift stores. You find the most amazing things at them. I've picked up passels of silk blouses for $5 apiece, a pair of '30s-style pumps for $8, a glorious crimson velvet evening gown for $20. If you live in a large city or a college town you're almost certain to have a good selection of thrift stores.
Don't go to a thrift store looking for something specific. You're likely to be disappointed. Instead, just start checking the racks and see what you find. Keep an open and creative mind. Even if something doesn't look promising at first, you may be able to dye it, change the buttons or trim, or turn it into something else. Creativity is one of the keys to goth style.
Don't confuse "thrift" with "vintage." Many thrift stores do have vintage clothing, but vintage clothing stores are not usually thrifty at all. By all means visit the vintage stores; you may well find something you just can't live without, and some vintage stores do have pieces for a steal. But a truly vintage store is more likely selling antiques, and they'll charge to reflect that.
Catalogs are a godsend for goths, and I don't mean just the gothy catalogs. A lot of "mainstream" clothing catalogs have things that are eminently goth, or can be made so with little effort. The key is to look at the shapes and the styles, and figure out how they'll work into a goth look. Peruse every catalog that crosses your mailbox, and see what you can find.
Don't neglect the mall, and I'm not talking about Hot Topic. A clever goth will be able to find things even in that bastion of suburbia. After the end-of-year holidays and after prom season are especially good times as special-event wear goes on sale. Department stores can be useful if you look carefully. Off-brand stores (such as Ross and TJ/TK Maxx) are often very good places to find goth-friendly things for good prices. Chain specialty stores are more of a crapshoot, especially for quality, but it never hurts to look.
A quick word on Hot Topic: Many goths despise the place, feeling it's "selling a lifestyle." And the prices tend to be on the high side, while the quality is questionable. But if you're living someplace with few other goth options, it can be something of an oasis, and you can find useful things on the clearance racks. There are generally better choices, but Hot Topic is not evil. Get what you can from it, and leave the rest.
Individual specialty stores and catalogs are a thornier matter. In general, they're more expensive. But they are also often the only place to get that special velvet dress, brocade coat or corset. Once again, balance desire with cost. A really well-made, beautiful, basic black velvet dress from a boutique or catalog can be a staple of a goth wardrobe, easily dressed up many different ways, and can therefore justify a high cost. But if it's something you'll only wear occasionally, it's probably not worth a high price. Of course, inexpensive and versatile is always the ideal combination, but that's not always what you find. And remember, there's nothing wrong with paying for a really outlandish item if you know in your heart you've just got to have it.
Of course, there is always eBay, and other online auction and consignment sites. It's possible to find amazing things for great prices. Be a shrewd, educated shopper; do your research on any seller so you don't get ripped off. And decide for yourself what a "budget" price for anything is. In an auction environment, the "right" price is what someone is willing to pay, and you don't have to let someone else set that definition for you. Finally, if you sew, you can give yourself the gothiest wardrobe possible for quite low cost. Many sewinggoths make as many of their own clothes as they possibly can, and wouldn't dream of paying more in the stores, especially for fancy items like coats and corsets. If you don't sew yourself, maybe you can find a friend or relative who does and who'd be willing to sew for you (in exchange for appropriate compensation, of course). Many mainstream patterns can easily be made goth with some simple alterations, or by doing them in goth fabrics; several companies have costume patterns that can make great goth gear. If you sew and want some special goth things, think about making them yourself.
Lots of goths dye their hair. This does not mean, however, that to be goth you must dye your hair. If you have lovely, glorious hair that you're happy with, for heaven's sake, no, don't dye.
If you do choose to dye, you have plenty of choices. The most common color is black (like, duh), and there are roughly about 53 million black hair dyes on the market. Once again, however, you don't have to go with the most common. Reds have become very popular (everything from screaming fire-engine scarlet to near-black burgundy), as have blues. You'll find goths with hair dyed every color under the rainbow, as well as black, white, and silver.
Whatever color you choose, consider your options, ask questions, and be sure of what you want before you take the plunge. Some products give you a long-term commitment whether you want it or not. Check the FAQ, talk to hairdressers, ask people who've dyed their hair. If you're going dramatically darker than your natural haircolor, you may want to try a temporary color first to get a feel for it, as the only way to correct a too-dark dye job is to bleach. Going dramatically lighter than your natural color is somewhat easier to fix (you can always dye over it with a darker color), as long as the bleaching process doesn't damage your hair too much.
Temporary hair colors (such as Loving Care) will wash out in about a week, and are a nice option if you want something for just a few days or want to try out a color before you make a longer commitment. The colors, however, tend to be muted.
Semipermanent colors (such as Natural Instincts) will, theoretically, wash out in 3-6 months. But be cautious on this. The darker you go, the longer it will take to remove, and that will be in inverse proportion to your natural hair color; if you go black, even with a semiperm color, expect to not get the color out of your hair completely without bleaching/stripping. Semipermanent colors do fade over time, but expect to have some shade of a semiperm color for several months.
Another semipermanent color you could try is the intense vegetable-based color, such as Manic Panic or Special Effects. It comes in a variety of unusual shades, and again fades over time, anywhere from a couple of days to a month. It gives a rich color that initially is fairly flat, without highlights. Certain colors fade more quickly than others (particularly blues and purples), and some colors will fade strangely (the black can leave you with a grayish-green tone). Again, check the FAQ for more info. Also, to get the purest color with these intense dyes, you'll need to bleach your hair first (unless you're blond). Otherwise you'll get a deep shade that's not quite the same as it is in the jar because it's mixed with your natural hair color.
Permanent colors (the stuff you find on most drugstore shelves) ain't coming out without bleach. Period. Be very very sure of what you want before you dump this stuff on your hair. In addition to the permanent commitment, some of these brands are not at all nice to your hair in the long term, and you might have to stop using them just to save your hair or your scalp.
Be aware also that with any type of color, if you're trying to go dramatically lighter than your natural shade, you'll need to bleach before coloring. You cannot, for instance, get flame-red tresses by putting red coloring over dark brown hair. If you've never bleached before, I'd personally recommend going to a professional for the first try, but that's because I'm skittish. You can bleach on your own; beauty supply stores (some of which are open to the public) carry the supplies, but if you've never bleached before, get some advice first. And remember that bleaching will damage your hair, and likely burn your scalp a bit, and this damage adds up over time. You cannot bleach the same hair indefinitely; eventually you'll need to cut some of it off, or switch to a less harsh color choice.
If you're coloring your hair for the first time, or if you're going dramatically lighter or dramatically darker (especially if it's a brand you've never used before), it's a good idea to follow the directions on the package. Once you've dyed a few times and gotten a feel for the vagaries of the dye and how your hair reacts to it, you can start experimenting more without worrying about unexpected results. Haircolor disasters do happen, but if you've taken the time to learn about what your chosen method is likely to do and to make sure of what you want, they won't happen to you. Whatever you choose, take care of your hair and your color once it's done. Use gentle shampoos, preferably for color-treated hair; make sure your hair gets enough conditioning, and don't abuse it more than is necessary.
You do have another option for colored hair, if you don't want to make a commitment to dye: you can go for wigs, hairpieces/falls, and/or extensions. These not only give you the chance to have another color for a night or a few days or a few weeks, they can also change the length or style of your hair without the commitment of a haircut. Hair extensions have become popular lately; though mainstream salons generally do only "natural" color extensions, places that cater to more adventurous crowds will generally have some unusual color options. Having extensions done professionally usually means a commitment of at least a few weeks in which you'll have the extensions in, and can be expensive. If you want something more temporary or less expensive, some beauty supply stores carry fake "fun" hair that you can play with for a club night, and there are even places now that sell ready-made extensions. Costume shops usually have some wigs in outlandish colors. There are also a number of online shops that sell falls and hairpieces in interesting styles, colors, and materials, and there are resources for learning to make your own falls.
Length and style of your hair is irrelevant to the goth look, incidentally. Do whatever the heck you want.
Painted Faces (& Other Things)
Goths like makeup. We just can't resist the opportunity to exercise our artistic impulses on our faces and fingernails. But you are not required to wear makeup to be a goth. Nor, if you are a male goth, should you feel you can't wear makeup.
The pale-face look is of course the "classic" goth makeup style. Some goths go for white foundation and white powder. If you do this, don't go for a clown-white look, which means don't buy white cream makeup at the costume store. Your face will scream "amateur!" not just to other goths, but to anyone looking at you. Look for light, water-based white makeup; many of the upscale cosmetic lines carry "toner" or "corrector" foundations, which are meant to be worn under regular foundation. You will put it on by itself, with a damp makeup sponge, making sure that your coverage is sheer and even, and dust over it lightly with translucent white powder. You can also mix white foundation into your regular foundation to get a paler look. White powder is a bit easier to locate than foundation; Manic Panic makes white powder, and there's always rice powder. Remember that if you do the white thing, you need to do it on all your exposed skin, and that may be more trouble than it's worth.
I'm painfully Anglo-Saxon, so going pale is easy for me, and I don't have experience with paling non-Anglo skin. Some goths of color of my acquaintance recommend the following: search for foundation that is a shade lighter than your natural tone, with powder to match. You can also put your regular shade on over white or mix it with white, as described above. It's recommended that you not try to go with straight white if your skin is notably not Anglo-Saxon, as you risk the clown-white effect. Or just skip the pale thing entirely, and revel in your ethnicity--being a non-Anglo goth is a distinctive look in itself.
As far as the rest of your warpaint, goths in general prefer makeup in cool colors, more blue than brown, but some skin tones look glorious in browns. There are no hard-and-fast rules on just what you should do with your eyeshadow, liner, mascara, and lipstick. Makeup is one of the areas in which goths most frequently exercise their imaginations, and it can be marvelously fun to play with.
Glitter has become popular in recent years. Glitter is best used as part of a dramatic overall "look"--on its own or with a muted outfit, it can sometimes look overpowering and silly. I won't say "use it sparingly" because on some people, being awash in glitter looks marvelous; but do use it prudently, so you don't look silly.
You do not have to spend outrageous amounts of money for cool cosmetics. Drugstore makeup brands can serve your cosmetic needs for a lot less money than the upscale department store/Sephora brands. Once again, your own preferences and your willingness to pay will determine what you buy. If you positively can't stand to put anything on your face but Chanel, don't. But if you're worried about how much you're spending, the results you get from Maybelline will be pretty much the same.
A few makeup advisories:
Don't draw all over your face with liquid eyeliner. A small design at the corner of the eye is acceptable, but the swirly-whirly extravagant look is definitely out; if you do it, you may find a gothic nanny coming at you with a wet-nap to wipe your face.
Black lipstick has been out of favor with older generations of goths for awhile; it's dreadfully cliched, it tends to make the wearer look haggard, and it's difficult to put on properly and keep on. However, it's seen a resurgence with the neo-goths of the new millenium. Super-dark purples and reds are good alternatives to black and tend to work better on older goths than black does. If you do want to wear black lipstick, keep in mind that babygoths tend to look more attractive in it than older goths, and that if you do something special and theatrical with your black lipstick it will look less cliched (e.g., go over it with some glittery lip gloss).
Do not do yourself up like The Crow. Ever. For any reason. There is nothing that will mark you as an amateur more quickly, and you will be taunted unmercifully.
More information:
I know a few goths who are not jewelry sluts, but not many. The whole sensuality/excess aspect of gothness seems to be the culprit here. You'll wear jewelry or not, as you please. My idea in this section is to give you some ideas on how not to bankrupt yourself if you do please.
Silver-tone jewelry is overwhelmingly popular with goths. I think it's the associations of silver being "cool" (as opposed to gold being "warm"), moonlight, and so forth. I don't see a lot of goths wearing gold-tone metal. Copper, however, is sometimes seen; it contrasts nicely with silver, and is a change of pace. The cardinal rule applies here, as always: if you like it, wear it; you'll make it goth.
Lots of goths wear skulls, bats, ankhs, crucifixes, coffins, and pentagrams. Such things rarely have anything to do with the wearer's religion and everything to do with how they look. Wear 'em if you want. They can be found everywhere, in every price range. What you like and what you want to spend are the determining factors.
Goths seem to alternate between lavishly expensive, custom jewelry, and phenomenally cheap stuff. This is another place where your budgetgoth instincts will be put to use. Unusual things can be found in unexpected places, and unpromising things can be made beautiful. I got a gorgeous pair of scrollwork earrings with black powdercoat finish off the sale rack at a chain store. A pair of pink plastic carnival-mask earrings that cost me $2 got a coat of sparkly black nailpolish and became ominous and lovely.
If you want custom or "nice" jewelry, be choosy and know what you're getting. You don't need to be a gemologist to know a good price for a piece. Check around, ask questions, examine things you want to buy. If you find a jeweler you absolutely adore, sing hallelujah and then strike up a relationship with him or her. Nothing is more valuable to a jewelry lover than a good relationship with a talented jeweler who knows what you like. There are a number of good jewelers in and catering to the goth community, and finding beautiful, quality work for reasonable prices isn't difficult.
If you want some pretty jewelry at low cost, start learning about beadwork. You can make special things for yourself and your friends that match exactly what you like. Many cities, especially large ones, have bead stores, and many stores have classes. Drop in and wander around. It won't take you long to discover that you have lots of ideas for things you can make with all those pretty trinkets.
Goth Style and the Mundane World
It's a dilemma every goth has faced: how do you reconcile your striking "look" with a world that frowns on anything but khaki trousers or business suits?
The first option is to not try and reconcile it. If you're a full-time college student, being goth will generally not be a problem on campus (though it can be with the parents, if you're still living at home; more on that shortly). If you're out in the workforce, you can look for "goth-friendly" employment. Independent retail outlets, especially in the "funky" parts of town, are often fairly laid back about gothness. In "office" work, companies that are associated with software (especially Internet and Web development), advertising agencies, and many businesses working in creative environments can be havens for goths. Companies working in finance, law, insurance, and health care are more likely to be unbendingly conservative. These are not hard and fast distinctions, though; where you live and the specifics of a particular company can make a difference in how full-on goth you can be at work.
If all the factors conspire to keep you in the business-suit world, do what you can. (Tip: Places that specify "professional appearance" are looking for the classic business-suit style.) Try stretching the rules and see what they'll let you get away with. Choose ties, shirts, blouses, scarves, and jewelry that reflect your goth tastes in color or fabric but still fit with the more "professional" strictures. Wear boots or unusual shoes rather than the typical "dress" shoes. And remember that you can be as goth as you want on your own time.
What if you're still living with your parents, and find yourself facing opposition to your goth look? The first thing to try is to discuss it with them reasonably and logically. For parents, the biggest problem they frequently have is that they think your look is going to reflect badly on them. Let them know why you dress the way you do, that you are comfortable and proud as you are, and they should be proud too that you are comfortable with who you are (this is particularly effective if you don't offer any other threats to their appearance of good parenting). You can try negotiating a compromise: "Okay, Mom, I won't wear black lipstick to school or to church, if you will agree not to give me grief about it when I do it on my own time."
If these aren't possible, or don't work, you can resort to subterfuge. Dress "normally" when you leave the house, but carry your goth gear in your backpack or bag, and change when you reach your destination. And of course dress "normally" when you're out with the folks. Keep in mind that you won't achieve anything but strife and alienation by deliberately disobeying your parents' wishes, and flaunting it in their faces. If you want to do that, go ahead, but things will be more comfortable for everyone if you try to keep your folks from feeling threatened by your style. My intent here is not to tell you how you and your parents should relate, just to help you in addressing the goth style issue.
School can be another tricky area, especially if you're in high school. At public schools dress codes vary wildly, though they tend to be most conservative in the southern U.S. Find out what your school's dress code is, and work with it as best you can. Contrary to the impression that's generally given, you have very few rights as a public-school student, and public schools are walking through political minefields these days and are generally not interested in "stretching the boundaries." If that's a battle you want to fight, get others to participate, and get adults on your side; there is strength in numbers. And be prepared for the possibility that you'll lose.
At private schools the restrictions are usually much more explicit (especially if you have to wear a uniform), but that, oddly, can free you to a certain extent. A certain amount of "personalization" of uniforms is usually tolerated. Remember Winona Ryder coming home from school at the end of Beetlejuice ? Again, know what the rules are, and then work within them.
More information:
Corporate Goth is a resource and support site for goths trying to make their way in the corporate world.